Jonas Dostert, Elbling
A chance to try a rare grape, with a young and exciting producer behind it. More energy and acid than the 90s.
Place: Mosel, Germany
Jonas Dostert is a young vigneron based in Nittel on the Mosel River, a stones throw away from Luxembourg. This terrain is very different to the steep, black slate soils typical of most Mosel vineyards. Here, limestone is the prevailing terroir, and slopes are at a gentler 30 degree angle. In this part of the Mosel, the lesser known Elbling grape variety is at home.
Most of the vineyards Jonas works with are younger vines, but the older parcels have been organic certified since 2012. Jonas is an energetic and passionate winemaker, with a clear vision for his vineyards and project. 2019 is his just his second vintage working with these parcels, and although his long term goal is to start labelling each wine according to the vineyards from whence they come, he still feels he is wrapping his head around what each site adds to each of the wines. Clearly a sign that there is intention to really understand his terroir deeply before going into more site specific bottlings. The wines are however already brimming with potential, and the energy in them is certainly indicative of a winemaker working with real focus. From the 2019 vintage onwards, the wines are now almost exclusively aged in fûts (as opposed to smaller barrique), and he has found that the more subtle influence of the oak has really benefited the style of the wine. Jonas is also happy with the moderate 10%-12% alcohol mark where his wines sit. Freshness and drinkability is key.
To champion a grape that very few have heard of is always something endearing, in that the value and merit of staying true to a local variety, as opposed to planting something with more commercial value, is immense. We believe that the Elbling grape, with Jonas guiding it through the cellar, has unforeseen potential in this region.